Okay, so this isn’t entirely the first time I shot the rifle ever, just the first time I got all the parts together to the point where I’m willing to say, yeah, now I want to get it on paper and see how this rifle really performs.
Up to now, it’s always been shooting offhand against scrap metal, and just shoot a hole, and try to shoot the same hole again. See if the trigger is right. See if the sights are really the ones I want to live with. And so on.
This is the Ruger from my first Ruger project–which you can read about on another page. I never was really done with it. Now I am, and here’s what all I have going on with the rifle, which is essentially ‘the best’ from all projects combined:
- GRG Mfg. muzzle brake (I’d rather have the JPRE-2 but you can’t have everything)
- CNC Warrior jam nut
- Tacticool22 muzzle adapter
- Lyman globe sight with two Lee Shaver reticles/inserts
- Ruger ‘K’ model factory 22-inch stainless steel tapered barrel
- Millet/Desert Eagle rear sight
- anti-cycloduction stock – custom
- Volquartsen hammer & spring set
- no offset spotting scope (too bad), because I took off the scope rail
To go with it, I have:
- Hyskore ‘Black Gun’ shooting rest
- Field & Stream paper target holder
- Birchwood-Casey ‘Dirty Bird’ splattering target
As far as the rifle goes, you’ll find all of its elements discussed elsewhere on this site. The only thing that bears mentioning is the anti-cycloduction stock. To take the idea of the modified cheek rest still further, I cut off the stock behind the grip and replaced it with aluminum and leather components, to make even more room for my cheek. It was a vast improvement over the original version, and I’m calling it the final version.
I’ve never used a shooting rest before, but I figured I needed one if I wanted to get really picky about getting on paper. I wanted to get results that would let me decide, with confidence, if I wanted to go further with other things, like bedding the stock, headspacing the bolt, re-chambering, or possibly playing with tuning the barrel.
I was happy with the Hyskore shooting rest, because it folds up small enough to sit on a bookshelf, where it looks good.
Off the shelf, a nice feature is that it’s built to make room for an extended magazine.
The feature it doesn’t have, that I’d like, is the ability to adjust it horizontally for windage. You get a screw adjustment for elevation, but for windage you have to shift the entire stand. Also, because of the extra forward weight of the 22-inch barrel and muzzle brake etc., the butt-end of the rifle did not want to settle downwards when I turned the elevation adjustment knob to lower it. I had to physically push down on the butt end to lower it in the pivot, to adjust for each shot. I added a spring that pulls downward on that part of the mechanism, because that part of fiddling was annoying. I’m sure anyone with a full-length steel bull barrel could not use this shooting rest without the added spring.
That’s a pretty hefty spring, but it works at such a steep angle that the tension on it is pretty manageable — especially since the actual adjustment up and down is done with a screw. Other spring setups are possible, and if you don’t have a spring laying around like I did, I’d recommend going to the auto parts store and getting two accelerator-linkage springs.
The Field & Stream paper target holder went together well and did its job. If it takes a direct hit on one of the cross-bars that holds up the paper target, it’s going to bend. It should be easy to straighten if that ever needs to be done, which I doubt it will.
The ‘splattering’ target didn’t splatter as much as I had hoped. I still had to walk away from my shooting position to see where the holes went. After I’ve used them up, I’m printing my own with my computer printer.
I should add a note about my sights. Another neat thing about the globe sight reticles is that you can stack them. I have the fine front blade, stacked on top of the double crosshairs, both Lee Shaver. It’s visually very comfortable to shoot, and I’m sticking with it for now. By itself, without the rear sight involved, here’s what it looks like:
Below is my first target, which takes some explanation.
The hole on the bottom left is the first shot. I’d just mounted the rear sight, so you can tell it needs some adjustment. The hole on the lower right is the second round, still not enough elevation, but too far the other way on windage. The two holes in the black circle around the red are the next try. Yet another adjustment, and the three in the red are my final three rounds. This was done at 30 yards, wind from the left at 8 mph, using Remington Goldens from a 525-round econo-brick, 36-grain, hollow point, brass plated. The tips of the calipers are set at one inch.
I wasn’t trying for extreme accuracy, but mostly, to get the sights dialed in. I’m calling the sight adjustment ‘good enough’, at least for now. After this, we’ll see how tight a group I can make when I’m really trying, and I might fiddle in one more click.
Here’s the rifle: